Portsmouth, New Hampshire is a compact coastal city steeped in history. Settled in 1623, it ranks among the oldest cities in the United States. In recent years, Portsmouth has gained attention for its lively restaurant scene, bars, and independent boutiques, making it an appealing New England destination for young professionals and visitors alike.
I grew up in Kennebunk, Maine, about a 40-minute drive from Portsmouth, yet I hadn’t spent much time there until recently. Hearing that the city had grown in popularity with twenty- and thirty-somethings, I spent a couple of days exploring Portsmouth on a trip home to visit family.
Getting to Portsmouth
Portsmouth sits on the Piscataqua River at the New Hampshire–Maine border; once you cross the bridge you’re in Maine. The city is roughly an hour from both Boston and Portland, making it easily accessible by car.
If you fly, Boston Logan International Airport is usually the most convenient and cost-effective option. Car rentals are plentiful there, but if you prefer not to drive, C&J Trailways runs buses from Boston to Portsmouth. Within the city, rideshare services are available. Note that Amtrak does not stop in Portsmouth.
Where to Stay
The Hotel Portsmouth
The Hotel Portsmouth is a 32-room boutique property located downtown within easy walking distance of shops and restaurants. Part of the Lark Hotels collection, it offers stylish common spaces and a small-plates breakfast service. My deluxe king room included a fireplace and felt like a cozy home away from home.
When to Visit Portsmouth
Many historic sites and seasonal events operate mainly in warmer months. While shops and restaurants remain open through winter, summer—roughly from Memorial Day to Labor Day—is the busiest and most eventful time to visit.
What to do in Portsmouth
Strawberry Banke
Strawberry Banke is an outdoor history museum made up of 37 preserved buildings forming a historic neighborhood on a tidal inlet of the Piscataqua River. The collection spans from the late 1600s through the 1800s and includes restored homes, workshops, taverns, and educational spaces. Some houses, like the Goodwin Mansion, are staged to reflect period decor, while other buildings host demonstrations, hearth cooking classes, and seasonal programming. In winter there’s often an ice rink; during the off-season it’s free to stroll the grounds.
Prescott Park
Prescott Park is a scenic waterside green with gardens and seasonal events including concerts, movie nights, and festivals. In summer it becomes a lively hub for outdoor performances and community gatherings.
The Music Hall
The Music Hall, an intimate 895-seat venue in downtown Portsmouth, hosts live music, film screenings, and author talks. It’s a cultural anchor for the city’s arts scene.
Odiorne Point State Park
Odiorne Point State Park sits along the coast and offers walking trails, canoeing, fishing, biking, and cross-country skiing. The Seacoast Science Center, located inside the park, features exhibits about the region’s natural and maritime history.
Portsmouth Harbor Lighthouse
The Portsmouth Harbor Lighthouse on Great Island in New Castle is open seasonally, typically late May through early September. When public tours are offered you can climb to the lantern room; otherwise the Great Island Common provides a pleasant vantage point. Nearby Fort Constitution, originally known as Fort William and Mary, offers views of the Piscataqua River and the Atlantic and provides historical context for the area’s military past.
Shopping in Portsmouth
Portsmouth has a vibrant selection of locally owned shops clustered around Market Street and Congress Street. The retail mix includes clothing boutiques, antique stores, bookshops, children’s toys, kitchenware, and home goods—less touristy and more curated than many small coastal towns.
Pickwick’s Mercantile
Pickwick’s Mercantile evokes the Victorian era with period-styled staff and an interior full of small-batch perfumes, books, and curios. Although it opened in 2012, the shop’s aesthetic feels timeless. A seasonal location also operates within Strawberry Banke.
Sault New England
Sault is a favorite for East Coast–themed apparel and casual men’s and women’s clothing. You’ll find New Hampshire motto tees and coastal-inspired pieces that make easy gifts or souvenirs.
Book & Bar
Part bookstore, part café and bar, Book & Bar functions as a community gathering spot. Evenings bring open mics, trivia, and live music, while daytime offers a comfortable place to work or read.
Salt Cellar
Housed in a cellar off Commercial Alley, Salt Cellar specializes in flavored salts, salt lamps, and beauty products. I picked up lemon and roasted-garlic salts—perfect for elevating simple dishes. It’s located across from Elephantine Bakery.
Diversions
Diversions is a specialty game shop that hosts weekly game nights, making it a fun stop for families and friends.
Off Piste
Off Piste offers a quirky selection of homewares and gifts—some playful and irreverent. It’s a lively place to browse for unique finds.
The New Hampshire State Liquor Store
Just off the highway, this large state-run liquor store is known for competitive prices and a wide selection. The Portsmouth location is one of many across the state.
The Kittery Outlets
Across the bridge in Maine, the Kittery Outlets offer brand-name shopping and discounts. The outlet areas are spread across several strip malls, so expect some driving between stores, but it’s a convenient option for bargain hunting or a rainy-day activity.
Where to Eat in Portsmouth
The Portsmouth Brewery
On Market Street, The Portsmouth Brewery is a popular lunch and dinner spot with house-brewed beers and a solid selection of local taps. The menu focuses on hearty pub fare—sandwiches, burgers, and comforting sides.
My family enjoyed generous sandwiches and classic pub dishes during our visit.
Café Mediterraneo
Café Mediterraneo on Congress Street serves Italian classics with generous portions. The owners bring experience from Boston’s North End, and the menu features housemade pastas, seafood, and hearty entrees—large enough to share in many cases.
Bennett’s Sandwich Shop
A beloved regional sandwich shop with a year-round Portsmouth location. Famous for cheesesteak subs, Bennett’s also serves excellent turkey sandwiches and BLTs—perfect for a quick, satisfying meal.
Elephantine Bakery
Hidden in a narrow pedestrian corridor, Elephantine Bakery is a cozy spot for breads and pastries—a perfect stop for breakfast or a coffee break.
Massimo
Massimo is a highly regarded Italian restaurant known for romantic ambiance and creative takes on classic dishes. Although it was closed during my visit, the menu is noted for items like lobster gnocchi and inventive seasonal plates. Upstairs, Upstair’s at Massimo’s operates as a more casual wine bar.
Cava
Cava is a tapas-and-wine bar on Commercial Alley beside Elephantine Bakery. The menu features Spanish-style small plates—patatas bravas, char-grilled octopus, and Serrano ham with manchego—and in summer diners can enjoy an outdoor area beneath a vertical garden.
Old Ferry Landing
Overlooking the ferry landing, Old Ferry Landing is a casual seafood spot serving lobster rolls, fried clams, and shrimp. It’s seasonal and popular for outdoor dining when the weather is warm.
Gilley’s Diner
What began as a lunch cart has grown into a local institution known for burgers, hot dogs, fries, and baked beans. Open from late morning into the night (and occasionally until 2 a.m.), Gilley’s offers both a small dine-in area and takeout—an old-school favorite in the downtown scene.
Where to Go Next
Portsmouth makes a great base for coastal day trips. Nearby destinations include Kennebunkport, Portland, and Boston—each offering its own mix of dining, shopping, and sightseeing.
Kennebunkport
Portland
Boston
Have you been to Portsmouth? What are your favorite things to do?